Soy un pasaje de tu vida

Queridos amigos,

 

My first year in Buenos Aires has been the best year of my life. I've grown up, learned, and seen so much — it feels like four years' worth! My series of unplanned moves turned out to be one of the best things that happened to me: I met all my best friends that way. And my final exams, though by no means pleasant, were a landmark. 

Where in South America or Europe shall I end up? Brazil, Holland, Italy? Besides my usual projects — seeing/making art, activism, and education (Was I born to be a professor, or what...?) — my new priority is finding work and situating myself in a place I like. The only update on the situation is that I don't feel ready to settle down in the United States. I'm going back to visit my family, but will search for long-term work abroad. I want to learn new languages and cultures, see more of the world, and live well (be able to afford healthy food, pursue a masters degree, see a doctor when I need to, and pay my bills). Brazil has been calling me (their tourism motto is "Brazil is calling you!"). Europe would be most convenient for paying down my massive student debts. My plans are still uncertain, but I'm getting there. 

With only two more days in Buenos Aires, I don't feel as melancholic as you'd think. I know I will miss it so much, but I've been having a great time with all my friends and the city's art. I haven't had time to be sad. My landlady, Fernanda, feels sure that I'll come back. I think it seems likely, too! At any rate, as she says, I'll bring home much more than my suitcases: all my new friends and memories!

I saw four great movies this week: 

• "La vida útil," an Uruguayan film about a cultural center worker who loses his job. Amazing cinematography, music, and dialogue!
• "Paul s'en va," a French existentialist film directed by Alain Tanner. It more like a play than a film and has lots of literary and philosophical dialogue. Highly recommended, too!
• A few amazing Spanish shorts. 
• The new Steve Carrell movie, "Crazy, Stupid, Love." It was really cute and made me miss my mom! I used to always watch romantic comedies at the mall with her.

I'll never forget all the great cinema classics I saw here at MALBA and Teatro San Martín. Of the 50 or so movies I saw, I was disappointed by one, and enthralled by all the rest. 

And now, for a photo summary of the rest of my last few weeks!

The famous Café Tortoni, founded in 1909, where the the great tangueros played. It's filled with amazing paintings and has lots of old-time character.

August is International Tango Month. When I arrived in Buenos Aires last August, I had a hard time adjusting to the new country and didn't get to experience much of tango month. I booked my flight at the end of August specifically so I'd be here for this festival. It has lived up to my expectations and more!! I've been seeing world-class tango musicians, singers, and dancers live every day! This is Sandra Mihanovich performing in an homage to Eladia Blázquez.

 

When I left Buenos Aires to visit my family for Thanksgiving, I missed every so much. I moped around listening to electrotango and drinking mate, wondering how soon I'd be able to get back. Bajofondo was one of the electrotango bands I discovered. I never dreamed I'd get to see them in concert. They played an amazing concert for free at a big technological festival, Technopolis! Amazing times. =)

 "El tango vuelve al barrio" ("Tango returns to the neighborhood") was one of my favorite acts of the festival. I saw them twice! Their goal is to present a more friendly, genuine sort of tango back to the neighborhoods. The guitarist and singer are amazing. I bought their CD! On the stage were two cafe tables, to set a more "neighborly" mood. During the first show, my friend José Miguel and I sat at one!

 Last night I made tacos for the kids in my house, Jorge, and, Miryam, a santiagüena (from the Santiago province) friend of his. It was the most successful dinner I've ever made! In the first 30 minutes, everyone had eaten three tacos — pausing only to compliment the food or say "mmm" — and all the food was gone! haha. This is the fourth or fifth dinner we've eaten together!

 

 Angéline and Nora, French and German respectively, from my house. =)

My sorority sister Dominique and I eating ice cream at Vesuvio, the first heladería (ice cream shop) in all of Argentina! I will miss the ice cream. It is heavenly! It has the texture Italian gelato and the flavors of America.

José Miguel, Jun, and Rodrigo at Tecnopolis. After the fair we had a great time eating pizza and drinking beer at Jun's house.

 

 José Miguel and his friends from Maracaibo, Venezuela. Alana and her boyfriend came to Argentina with only 10 pesos in hand, and in five months have worked their way up to renting their own room and finding artistic work. I admire them, and they put things in perspective for me: I had felt poor at times having to choose between coffee and empanadas, or only go to cafes a few times a week. They have lived in Argentina for five months and have only been out to eat twice. They survived with la fuerza de su voluntad (their strong willpower) and the help of friends, and they really accomplished so much. Alana assured me that I can come back to Buenos Aires or go to Europe if I want to. It's so nice to meet people like that. They make me believe it! =)

Fernanda (my landlady), Juliana, Angéline, and Nora — the girls of my house (only Camila is missing). Fernanda has been like an aunt to me. They were all so great to meet!

 Angéline, Johannes, Juliana, and Camila at Camila's favorite ice cream shop: Nonna Bianca.

Fede at Recoleta. I like this picture!

 

Signs at the Plaza de Mayo. "The only fight one loses, is the fight they abandon, and that is not in our minds." "You cannot and should not stop talking about the past, especially when there are open wounds like the Malvinas/Faulkland Islands."

 This display at the Memorial Museum behind la Casa Rosada really had an impact on me. The bandana, worn in protest by a mother whose child had "disappeared" and been tortured and killed, is stained with blood from a military officer's attack. The mother was later killed.

The Mothers (now Grandmothers) of Plaza de Mayo asking for the whereabouts of their disappeared (kidnapped and tortured) children. This happened in Buenos Aires — in all of Argentina and Latin America — in the 70's. They are right: it's important to remember. These things have happened and are eternally possible. It is our duty to put an end to them and make sure they don't happen again.

A bunch of Jurassic Park-style mechanized dinosaurs were featured at Tecnopolis, along with these fossils of a real dinosaur. Next to the fossils were a sign that said "Please don't touch the dinosaur." In my five minutes in front of it, I saw three people lay their fingers on the bones. Only in Argentina! haha.

I waited in line three and a half hours for Tango World Championship tickets with José Miguel. The finals are on Monday night, just before I leave. I think they will be spectacular!

Abrazos!!
Kaeli